That persistent drip, drip, drip of a leaky faucet is more than just an annoyance; it’s a constant drain on your wallet and a waste of water. According to the EPA, a single faucet leaking at a rate of one drip per second can waste over 3,000 gallons of water per year.
The good news is that most faucet leaks are caused by easily replaceable, inexpensive parts—usually worn-out rubber washers, O-rings, or a faulty cartridge. Fixing the leak is a straightforward task that any homeowner can accomplish with basic tools and a clear plan.
This comprehensive, step-by-step guide will walk you through the diagnosis and repair process, ensuring you have the right tools and parts for the three most common types of household faucets: compression, cartridge, and ball.
Pre-Step: Preparation and Safety
Before you begin any plumbing repair, preparation is key to preventing a flood and ensuring a smooth process.
Tools Required
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Adjustable Wrench: For loosening nuts and bolts.
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Screwdriver Set: Flathead and Phillips for removing handle screws.
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Pliers: Needle-nose pliers for gripping small parts and channel-lock pliers for stubborn nuts.
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Utility Knife or Scraper: For removing old plumber's putty or buildup.
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Hex Keys (Allen Wrenches): Often required for newer, single-handle faucet set screws.
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Socket Wrench Set (Optional but helpful): For deeply recessed packing nuts.
Materials Required (The Leak Fixers)
It is highly recommended to have a few of these common consumables on hand, as you won't know the exact size until you disassemble the faucet:
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Faucet Repair Kit: Contains assorted rubber washers, O-rings, and screws.
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Plumber's Grease (Silicone Grease): Essential for lubricating new O-rings and screws before installation to ensure a smooth seal and easy movement. Do not use petroleum jelly.
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Vinegar or Lime-A-Way: For cleaning mineral deposits (limescale/calcium) from internal components.
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Thread Seal Tape (Teflon Tape): For re-sealing any threaded connections you disassemble.
Safety Check: Shut Off the Water
This step is non-negotiable.
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Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Under the sink, look for two small valves (one for hot, one for cold) attached to the supply lines.
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Turn Off: Turn both valves clockwise until tight.
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Drain the Remaining Water: Turn the faucet on to release any water trapped in the lines. This also confirms the shut-off valves are working.
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Protect the Drain: Place a rag or plug into the drain to prevent small screws or parts from falling into the pipes.
Step 1: Dismantle the Faucet Handle
The method for removing the handle depends on your faucet's design, but the goal is the same: expose the internal workings.
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Remove the Decorative Cap: Most handles have a decorative metal or plastic cap (often colored red/blue for temperature) that pops off or unscrews. Use a flathead screwdriver or utility knife tip to gently pry it off.
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Remove the Set Screw: Underneath the cap, you will find a screw securing the handle to the stem. This is usually a Phillips screw, but newer models often use a recessed hex key (Allen) screw.
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Lift the Handle: Once the screw is removed, the handle should lift straight off. If it's stuck due to mineral deposits, wiggle it gently or apply a few drops of white vinegar to the base.
Step 2: Identify Your Faucet Type and Component
After removing the handle, you must identify the mechanism inside to know which parts to replace.
A. Compression Faucet (Two Handles, Oldest Type)
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Mechanism: Uses rubber washers compressed against a valve seat to stop the water flow.
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Visible Part: A stem, often brass, with a Packing Nut underneath the handle.
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Goal: Replace the washer at the bottom of the stem and the O-ring/packing material in the stem housing.
B. Cartridge Faucet (One or Two Handles, Moderately Common)
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Mechanism: Uses a cylindrical, movable Cartridge (plastic or brass) that moves up and down or rotates to regulate flow.
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Visible Part: A large, often plastic or metal cylindrical piece that looks like a sleeve inside the faucet body.
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Goal: Replace the entire cartridge.
C. Ball Faucet (Single Handle, Round Base)
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Mechanism: Uses a round, slotted Ball (socket) to control water flow. These are the most complex to repair.
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Visible Part: After the handle is removed, you see a Cap or Collar that holds the ball mechanism in place.
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Goal: Replace the springs, seals, and O-rings inside the ball housing.
Step 3: Access and Remove the Faulty Component
This step requires the most patience and the right tools for your specific faucet type.
For Compression Faucets:
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Remove the Packing Nut: Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the large nut directly below where the handle sat. This exposes the valve stem.
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Remove the Valve Stem: The stem screws out. Examine the bottom.
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Replace the Washer: Unscrew the screw at the bottom of the stem. Remove the old rubber washer and screw on a new washer of the exact size.
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Replace the O-Ring/Packing: Before reinstalling the stem, look for a worn O-ring or packing material (stringy sealant) around the stem housing and replace it, coating the new piece with plumber's grease.
For Cartridge Faucets:
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Remove the Retainer Clip (Crucial!): The cartridge is held in place by a brass nut or, more commonly, a small metal clip or pin. Note its orientation, remove it with pliers or a screwdriver, and set it aside carefully.
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Remove the Cartridge: Pull the cartridge straight out of the faucet body. You may need needle-nose pliers or a specialized cartridge puller if it's tightly lodged.
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Inspect or Replace: If the cartridge is brass, inspect the internal O-rings for cuts and replace them, lubricating the new ones. If the cartridge is plastic, it is typically easiest and best practice to replace the entire cartridge with a new matching unit.
For Ball Faucets:
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Loosen the Cap/Collar: Use channel-lock pliers (protected by a rag to prevent scratching) to unscrew the cap that covers the ball assembly.
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Remove the Slotted Ball: Lift the large, slotted ball out.
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Remove Seals and Springs: Inside the assembly, you will find two small Inlet Seals resting on tiny Springs. These are the most common source of leaks in this faucet type. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the old springs and seals.
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Replace Components: Install new springs and seals, ensuring the springs are correctly seated in the bottom of the housing.
Step 4: Reassemble the Faucet and Test
With the new parts installed, reverse the process, lubricating components as you go.
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Apply Plumber's Grease: Apply a thin layer of plumber's grease to all new rubber washers and O-rings. This ensures a tight, smooth seal and extends the life of the components.
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Reinstall Internal Parts: Carefully place the cartridge, stem, or ball assembly back into the faucet body, ensuring it is correctly aligned (the small brass retaining clip or screw hole must line up).
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Secure Components: Tighten the packing nut or secure the retainer clip/cap. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the new O-rings.
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Reinstall Handle: Place the handle back on the stem and secure it with the set screw. Put the decorative cap back on.
Step 5: Restore Water Flow and Check for Leaks
The final step is the moment of truth.
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Restore Water Slowly: Go back under the sink and slowly turn the hot and cold shut-off valves counter-clockwise to restore the water flow. If you turn them too quickly, the sudden pressure can damage internal components.
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Initial Check: Immediately look under the sink for any leaks around the supply lines you might have bumped.
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Test the Faucet: Turn the faucet on and off several times. Listen closely for any remaining drips.
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Check for Stem Leaks: If the faucet no longer drips but now leaks around the handle when the water is running, the packing nut (on a compression faucet) or the main O-ring seal was installed incorrectly or needs to be tightened slightly more. If the leak persists, the entire cartridge or stem assembly may need replacement.
By systematically addressing the leak, identifying the correct mechanism, and using fresh, well-lubricated components, you can silence that irritating drip and save thousands of gallons of water annually, all with minimal cost and effort.